Here we show you what to look for when buying a new set of road bike tyres; something that could give you huge performance gains
In our latest buyer’s guide video we run through what you should be looking for when selecting new road bike tyres.
Many of us are tempted to shed out loads of money on new wheels or a wholesale overhaul of the bike’s groupset, but huge gains can be made for much less money when a decent set of road bike tyres is chosen.
A well chosen set of tyres can help you ride faster, corner better and, with the right balance of durability to performance, you should find yourself stopping to repair punctures much less often.
Types of bike tyre
There are three types of bike tyres on the market
First up is the clincher, the choice of the majority of road riders. This features a bead around the outside of the tyre which hooks under a lip on the rim, with a separate inner tube running inside. The main advantage of this system is convenience, with the inner tube being easy to change in the event of a puncture.
Next is the tubular tyre. With this design the inner tube is sewn into the tyre, with the whole thing then attached to the wheel using glue or rim tape. This is the choice of a lot of racers due to the generally lower rolling resistance and weight, but can be impractical when you puncture.
Finally you’ve got tubeless tyres. These are similar to clinchers, but with the tyre sitting firmly enough against the rim to hold the tyre’s pressure, eliminating the need for an inner tube all together. The tyre is then filled with sealant, which plugs cuts or gashes in the rubber.
This system greatly reduces the chance of punctures, although the snug fit that is required between the tyre and the rim can make tubeless tyres fiddly to fit.
The puncture protection offered by tubeless tyres is very impressive. To see how impressive watch the video below where we hammer nails into a tyre!
It can be a little confusing when it comes to deciding which road bike tyres are right for you. ‘Great rolling resistance, lightweight and fast’ sounds tempting, but if you’re using them day-to-day you may have some more considerations than simply going for the most racy option.
What we’d all love is a perfect compromise: as fast as possible, but not leaving us prone to punctures.
We’ve all been there, sitting at the roadside fiddling with tyre levers trying our best to change a punctured tube as quick as possible, usually whilst running late or just about fighting off hypothermia.
Sometimes these little mishaps happen and we can’t do anything about them, though if it’s happening to you on a regular basis, you may have the wrong type of rubber in contact with the road or the tyre might be worn out and in need of changing.
We have a couple of things to consider before we go in-depth. A standard road wheel size is 700c with the more common options of 23, 25 or 28mm widths.
Traditionally, 23mm widths are put on race bikes, 25mm for training and 28mm widths for a mixture of hard and rough roads.
Indeed with modern technology allowing for better tyre construction, we’ve seen a definite shift in how different width tyres are used. For example most road riders now like to use 25mm tyres.
Generally speaking, the narrower the tyres the less comfort is on offer, with decreased rolling resistance providing a faster experience for dry, summer cycling.
Wider tyres can deliver better comfort; puncture protection and grip, mainly at the cost of weight, and are better for the wintry roads.
The three main categories to look out for are: puncture proofing, the tyres’ rolling ability and grip levels. Whilst in an ideal world we’d have all three, in reality we have to limit one to increase another.
Read more about tyres
Winter road bike tyres: choose well to avoid a winter of punctures
When racing, tyre choice can be an important factor: speed, grip and ability to cope with changing conditions all need…
Which one is right for you?
Time of year, type of terrain, weather and price can all be factors in which tyre is right for you.
Time of year
Summer brings good weather, clean roads and nicer bikes so it seems ludicrous that we would stick a slow rolling and heavy-duty tyre on our bikes.
If a fast racing tyre is your thing you’ll be expected to have lowered protection from punctures with a thinner puncture protection belt to help reduce weight and rolling resistance, which will help that fast feeling we all desire.
However, winter, which we all know brings with it bad weather, gritty harsh roads and more casual rides allowing us to pick the bigger, chunkier tyre to save us from being victims of the dreaded flint or glass puncture.
Larger tyres allow for lower pressures that help absorb the bumps, increasing grip and comfort too. Watch out for mudguard clearance though as larger tyres could be limited if you have minimal clearance.
If you commute in town – you’re likely to need a more heavy duty option. Broken glass and general debris mean you’re way more likely to slit your tyres.
Zip isn’t everything here so you’ll want to look out for a hardwearing tyre too that will give you some longevity for the money you outlay.
What are we really paying for? In basic terms we pay for technology in the rubber, quality of the construction and weight.
Cheaper options tend to lack in grip, puncture protection and are usually supplied with a steal bead. Rigid steal beaded tyres, other than being harder to transfer around off the bike, are heavier than folding alternatives.
Though cheaper, they can also be a pain to put on and pull off the wheel, mostly at the expense of your thumbs!
Although you may feel that a cheaper option is ok for you, some tyre manufacturers ensure their compounds work well in a good range of temperatures, meaning either grip, protection or longevity works better all year round.
It may be a big outlay but might pay to save money in the long run.
Wear and tear
Keeping an eye on your tread is important too. Not only for the life of the tyre, but watching out for stuck glass or flints that haven’t penetrated just yet.
Ideally, cleaning your bike regularly and giving your tyres a quick once over before each outing could save you a puncture during your ride, unless you pick something up en route of course.
Some tyres come with wear markers. These can be small dotted grooves in the middle of the tyre itself that will slowly disappear overtime. If you have no wear markers, you may need to think about replacing the tyres.
Testing the rolling resistance of tyres
In addition to field testing out on the road, engineer and elite rider, Dan Bigham has helped Cycling Weekly calculate the rolling resistance of the different sets of road bike tyres. The lower the rolling resistance, the faster the tyre and the difference can be huge.
To do this, each set of tyres were ridden on rollers, allowing us to record the speed achieved for a given power output. For consistency, the tyres were all inflated to 100psi using a digital gauge and ridden on flat rollers.
For the test we exclusively used new tyres and a PowerTap hub was calibrated and used for power measurement.
Each tyre was ridden at 280W for 5 minutes to allow it it warm up, whereupon they were ridden at a constant power of 300W for 5 minutes.
To ensure even weight distribution, the rider maintained a constant position on the hoods and the weight of the bike and rider was recorded before each test.
Any slight differences in weight or power output were factored into the final calculations. The Fit. Files were put into Matlab and the inertia was corrected for each tyre.
The results of different tyres are tabulated below.
|Tyre||Max PSI||Weight (g)||Width (mm) (measured)||TPI||Watts at 40kph*||Rolling ranking|
|Michelin Power Race||116||217||26||180||35.2||3|
|Vittoria Corsa G+||145||239||27||320||35.1||2|
|Schwalbe One Tubeless||130||231||26||127||35.6||4|
|Mitas Syrinx Racing Pro||120||245||25||127||43.6||9|
|Vredestein Fortezza Senso||130||237||25.5||120||45.1||10|
*Travelling at 40kph with system weight of 85kg
** For the rolling resistance test all tyres were 25mm apart from Hutchinson which were 23mm
As you’ll know, it doesn’t matter how well you prepare, you’ll inevitably get a puncture… there, we’ve said the P word!
In your pocket or seatpack you should carry at least a set of tyre levers, puncture repair kit, two tubes, a mini-pump and a business card just incase you have a complete blow out, it does happen.