If you’re going to leave your bike unattended, even for a moment, you need one of these — a tough, thief-foiling bike lock

What to look for

Type of lock

Type of lock

Which type of lock is best for you?

Generally, there are two types of bike lock: cable-chain and shackle. While shackle locks once enjoyed a go-to reputation as the toughest of the two, modern cable locks are now the shackle’s equal. Side by side, if they have independent security ratings, the choice comes down to which type of lock you will find easier to live with.


A lock's weight can be both a pro and a con

A lock’s weight can be both a pro and a con

The locks in our selection weigh as much as 2.7kg, which is a significant chunk of mass to be adding to your everyday travels on the bike. While you might feel reassured by a lock’s heft, you might not want to transport it up that one-in-six hill on your daily commute. Like the cable-versus-shackle decision, this is a balancing act that relies significantly on personal choice.

Testing certification

Is it secure?

Is it secure?

An independent testing certification such as Sold Secure adds an extra level of confidence and credibility to your chosen lock. Gold, Silver and Bronze ratings are assigned by
testing bodies, with gold being the most secure. All seven of the locks here are independently rated.

Ease of use

When arriving at your destination you’ll need to secure the bike to something. This often requires a hand or body part to hold the bike still. If your lock also requires two (or more!) hands to use easily, this can be a real pain. For us, the main part of the lock needs to be controllable with one hand. If something is too complicated to actually use, the chances are you won’t bother. Not bothering either limits your bike usage or means you run the risk of ‘just nipping in here for a minute’ without locking the bike. Trust us, that’s never a good thing!


We live in a damp climate, so the chances are your locked bike is likely to be subject to at least occasional precipitation. While we don’t expect perfectly watertight seals around any opening, additional weather proofing — particularly around the key barrel —is always a good thing.


In order to use a lock to secure your bike, you’ll need to have the lock with you on the bike. It’s worth bearing in mind that the more secure the lock the heavier they tend to be. Many locks come with brackets to secure them to your bike, but we need to make sure they are both secure and not too fiddly to put you off using them. After all, the best lock is only useful if you have it with you.

Our pick of the best bike locks

Knog Bouncer bike lock

This lock is small and well designed, but its strengths may also be its weaknesses. With Knog’s reputation for kookie…

Score 7

Zéfal K-Traz A25 bike lock

This style of lock is a popular alternative to the standard D lock thanks to the flexibility it offers when…

Score 7

Squire Mako Conger bike lock

The Squire Mako Conger bike lock is the only combination/chain lock that we have tested recently, the rest using a…

Score 8

Kryptonite New York M18 bike lock

Kryptonite’s considerable reputation precedes it, and its flagship Kryptonite New York M18 bike lock did not disappoint. Plastered in approval…

Score 9

Hiplok bike lock

Neat use of wordplay indicates Hiplok’s on-trend attitude, and the fact that it’s designed to be worn around the waist…

Score 8

Masterlock Criterion bike lock

The Masterlock Criterion bike lock sits at the top end of the bike lock market in terms of both cost and…

Score 9


Such a varied spread of prices can complicate things when it comes to choosing a test winner. In this case though, even though the Kryptonite costs nearly three times as much as some of its test rivals, we feel the extra outlay — and considerable weight — is worth it. Your bike might easily cost upwards of £1,000 — an investment worth protecting with a premium lock, we’d say. Sold Secure Gold ratings for cycle and motorcycle protection, plus Classe SRA approval, make it the most secure item on test, and it has a quality feel and finish to back that up.

While accepting that no lock is totally thief-proof, we’d trust all of the locks tested if we had to leave a bike on the street for a short while — though we’d like to see Zéfal invest in accreditation for extra confidence.

Words: James Shrubsall, Neil Webb & Hannah Bussey

  • ivorf

    Agree with you about cable locks: only of use for “cafe stops” when the bike is in sight and close by. Another point is that if you combine a D-lock with a cable or chain (the latter two with a separate lock), then the thief needs to carry two types of tool, which is much harder for him to explain to the police if he is stopped.

  • You’re so right! I had a couple bikes stolen up at school and the only why I stopped the nonsense was to go with two U Locks and take my seat in with me to class. I was also considering getting something called Spy bike found in this best bike locks article. It attaches to your stem and locks like an innocuous top cap. Not sure I want to shell out $164 bucks for a bike tracking device.

  • Andy M.

    Not a very good test report – usual Cycling weekly standard. To credit cable locks like to two above with a ‘7’ is a joke and misleading to buyers. All of them, even the really fat ones, can be cut through easily and quickly. If the Kryptonite is a ‘9’ then the two low spec. cables really are about a ‘4’ at most. The Masterlock criterion demonstrates what is wrong with the bike industry – far, far too expensive – not really much better than a similar product at less than half the cost and sold with exaggerated performance claims. The shackle is the weak point and even a ‘silver secure’ level one such as the ABUS ‘Ultimate’ does not stand up to much of an attack. I cut through one with a hacksaw in 30 minutes last week – so much for ‘toughened steel’.
    A small rotary disc saw would have taken about 4 minutes.

  • Peter Hart

    It doesn’t matter how good your lock is if you don’t secure your bike to something substantial. Lock the frame to the wheel, and the whole bike can be carried off!

  • Goran Gozo

    Thanks for the link to the website! 🙂

  • While I completely agree with the chosen winner, I have to take issue with the statement that “modern cable locks are now the shackles equal”.

    This is just not true. In fact, most modern cable locks offer the same level of protection as any other cable locks: practically none.

    I have read a couple of reports that suggest that 90% of stolen bicycles were “secured” with cable locks. But most people don’t know this and buy them because they’re cheap, light, long, easy to use and sold as adequate bike locks in respectable shops.

    I’m not sure if I’m allowed to post a link here, but I set up The Best Bike Lock specifically to try inform people about cable locks and to suggest better alternatives.

    Sure, you won’t find any other types of locks that offer all of the advantages of cable locks. But there are plenty that offer some of them and most importantly, will also protect your bike!

  • Hi Mark,

    Yes, the mounting brackets that come with most big brand locks aren’t up to much. In my experience Kryptonite are the worst, OnGuard just slightly better and then Abus a bit better again. But none of them seem to withstand even moderately rough riding well.

    Have you looked at the Two Fish Lockblock velcro mounts? They get great reviews, although they are not always easy to get in the UK.


  • Mark

    I’ve bought a couple of D-locks recently, one cheap and one pricier, and in both cases the mounting brackets have fallen apart when going through potholes after a few months. Does anybody else have this problem? And can anyone recommend a good D-lock with a bracket definitely strong enough to survive on a non-suspension aluminium bike on pot-holed city streets?